Sew-Classic Blog

A Few of my Favorite things.......

Sew-Classic — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 00:29:00 GMT

My mom found this cute little sewing machine music box at an estate sale. It plays "My Favorite Things". The flash conversion makes the music sound "tinny", but I'm not enough of a compuuter person to even want to try and fix it. In person, it sounds quite nice.

"Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens..."

So, what would the lyrics to this melody be for you? What are a few of your favorite things??

http://blog.sew-classic.com/2010/03/12/draft.aspx

P.S. This item will soon be available at the Sew-Classic Shop.

Just Wondering........

Sew-Classic — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 13:40:00 GMT

Just wondering....

...will Spring EVER get here??!!

How to Choose a Sewing Machine Needle

Sew-Classic — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 20:35:00 GMT

Most home sewing machines (about 99% of them) use the same class of needles. Within that class, there is a staggering array of sizes, and types to suit a wide variety of applications. The whole process of picking the right needle is often misunderstood and many people get quite confused, but I found a really great resource to help clear things up. - AND IT'S FREE!!!

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle Booklet

Jo-Ann's has a great little booklet in PDF form that really explains the ins and outs of selecting a sewing machine needle very well. There are clear illustrations of several types of needles along with a REALLY informative page titled, "Anatomy of a Machine Needle".

The last page has a reference chart for European and American/Asian needle sizes and a guide to help choose the correct size of needle based on the weight of the fabric.

This is one to print out and keep handy in your sewing room, so be sure to download it now while it's still available.

Note- the following information is omitted from the pamphlet::

Stretch needles have an offset blade that can rub against the needle opening or even the hook on machines in which the hook is set in very close. Many quality, vintage machines have very close tolerances between the hook and needle, and using a stretch needle with these machines is not advised.

How to Replace and Adjust a Sewing Machine Belt

Sew-Classic — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 16:47:00 GMT

All Rights Reserved Copyright 2008-2010 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
This tutorial applies to most external motor, belt driven sewing machines. You can purchase a wide variety of Sewing machine belts through the Sew-Classic on line Shop. If you don't find the size of type of belt you need, please feel free to contact me. I'm glad to help.

	STEP ONE: Loosen the screw/ bolt that fastens the motor bracket to the back of the machine.
	STEP TWO: Lift the motor and bracket upwards so that you can easily slip the old belt off of the motor pulley and then off of the hand wheel.
	STEP THREE: Slip the new belt over the hand wheel and into the groove on the hand wheel.
	STEP FOUR: With the bolt still loose, and the motor slid up all the way, slip the new belt onto the motor pulley. Do NOT force the belt. Unless you are installing a stretch belt, do NOT attempt to stretch the belt. If the solid or cogged v-belt won't fit, then get one that is a slightly larger size.
	STEP FIVE: Allow the weight of the motor to take up some of the slack in the belt. Adjust the vertical position of the motor bracket so that the belt is just barely tight enough so it grips the hand wheel and motor pulley and the parts are engaged and turning. The idea is for it to be just tighten enough so that the belt isn't slipping. Tighter is not better. Over tightening the belt will strain the motor, slow down performance, and eventually damage the motor bushings/bearings. Tighten the mounting bolt and check belt tension one last time. Again- do NOT over tighten.
	Just a few more tips: If a stretch belt was previously used on the machine, make certain that any melted rubber bits have been removed from the hand wheel belt groove and the motor pulley groove. You want these areas to be clean and oil-free. When do you need a new belt? If you have a stretch belt on the machine- look to get a solid or cogged v-belt of the correct size. If the belt is cracking or shiny/smooth on the sides. If the belt is too small or too large for proper adjustment.

HOW TO DETERMINE BELT SIZE:

To measure an existing belt (non-stretch):

Place a piece of tape around the belt. The leading edge of the tape will be the measuring point.
Set the belt down on the paper and draw a mark on the paper at the edge of the tape.
Roll the belt in a straight line along the paper and when you get to the leading edge of the tape, put another mark on the paper.
Measure the distance between the marks- this is the length of your belt

If you purchase a replacement belt that is too small, it will be difficult to install using the method shown above, and you may not be able to obtain the proper adjustment. However, due to the adjustment factor, a slightly larger or slightly smaller than original belt can often work fine.

The solid black v-belts look most like the original and are the most attractive. The orange-ish cogged v-belts may not look as nice, but their design makes them more flexible, and I actually prefer the performance of this type.

The rubber stretch belts are for circumstances when you don't know or have the exact right size. The stretch belts put constant tension and more strain on the motor bearings/bushings. Although these types of belts can be handy to have in a pinch and are easier to install, they are less than ideal.

Bernina 117K...working on the review- a teaser

Sew-Classic — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 18:50:00 GMT

All Rights Reserved Copyright 2008-2010 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
Look at what my mom had at her house- a Bernina 117K!

I am going to be doing a full review of this model. Right now I am finishing up some research and testing, and getting loads more photographs! I hope to make it a very thorough review with plenty of information about this sewing machine. There will even be a PDF copy of the original manual which I scanned and converted.

This particular machine included quite a bit of original documentation which actually conflicts with some theories out there about the Bernina serial number system and dating, but I'll go into more detail later.

It's a BEAST of a machine- every bit as sturdy as it looks. It uses industrial needles and has ZIGZAG, adjustable needle position, ALL METAL GEARS (unlike so many of the other vintage Berninas), adjustable pressure foot pressure......off to work on the review...be back soon....

Singer 237 Fashion Mate Sewing Machine Reveiw

Sew-Classic — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:41:00 GMT

The Singer 237 was a basic, zigzag, flat bed sewing machine that Singer sold in the later part of the 1960's. Despite it's humble beginnings, this machine is definitely worth considering as a decent, vintage machine. It makes a stunning satin stitch.

Let's start with the statistics and features:

Cast iron head with some plastic panels
Weighs about 32 pounds
Side loading, class 15 bobbin (bobbin case position finger at the 1 o'clock position)
Uses standard, 15x1, household sewing machine needles
Low shank attachments (including low shank buttonhole attachments)
Adjustable needle position
Adjustable stitch length and width
Adjustable presser foot pressure
Reverse feed
Feed dogs drop (control knob on bed)
NO PLASTIC GEARS
External light fixture
External, belt driven motor - Great candidate for a "motorectomy" and conversion to treadle.

Over all, The Singer 237 reminds me of many of the Japanese built, side loading, class 15 machines of the same era.

The 237 can be mounted into a standard Singer table or treadle base, but quite often it was sold with a plastic case as shown below. Whenever shipping this machine, it should always be removed from the case, and the machine and case should be packed separately.

These are generally pretty sturdy machines, but there are a few things to be on the look out for when buying these. for one, the hook race cover is plastic and can crack with age. A replacement cover can be purchased, and Sew-classic Parts and supplies I will be carrying them, as well as replacements belts in the Sew-Classic on line Parts and Supplies Store. Other than a good cleaning and oiling, a new belt and perhaps a replacement race cover, these machines generally don't have too many typical problems. However, it's always a good idea to test out any machine by sewing and winding a bobbin first, unless the seller has already serviced, tested it and is offering a guarantee. It's not uncommon for a machine of this age to have suffered abuse or even have missing parts- a quick test sewing will let you know right away if there are any serious issues.

Above: Here is the plastic race cover found on the 237 (and the 239)

THERE IS NOTHING INDUSTRIAL ABOUT THIS MODEL. Yep, plenty of eBay, snake oil salesman will market it as "industrial strength". (for more information: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine on Ebay)

The Singer 239 is the straight stitch version of the 237.

You can get a free threading diagram here.

More photos:

Below, here is the Singer model 239- the straight stitch only "sibling" of the 237

Stop By and Take a Look Around! NOW FEATURING SECURE CONNECTION!

Sew-Classic — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:16:00 GMT

UPDATE 02/10/2010: The Sew-Classic Parts & Supplies Shop now features a SSL certificate and a secure connection! You can submit your shipping information and complete order via a safe, secure connection! You can pay via any major credit card through Paypal- no Paypal account required, or you can print your order and make payment with your check or money order.
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Well, I've been working away at getting the Sew-Classic on-line shop stocked and ready to roll. Although I still have items to add, there are currently 73 products listed. Several items are EXCLUSIVE, Sew-Classic products that you won't find anywhere else, some are standard items like bobbins, belts, oil & feet, but ALL of them are priced competitively.

Shipping costs start at an amazingly low $1.95 and gradually go up based on the weight of the items you purchase.

Anyhow, I'd like to invite everyone to stop by and have a look around. If you are looking for something you don't see listed, by all means drop me a line! If I don't have it in stock, I may well be able to get it for you.

The Sew-Classic™ Parts and Supplies Shop

Seam Finishes Using a Straight Stitch Sewing Machine

Sew-Classic — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 19:40:00 GMT

I hear it all the time, "I have to have zigzag stitch to finish seams". Although you can use a zigzag stitch to prevent a seam from raveling, it's far from the only good option. I'm pretty sure that many articles of clothing were made and worn long before home sewing machines were sold with a zigzag stitch, and I'm pretty sure that these clothes didn't routinely fall apart in the wash.

I was perusing one of my vintage sewing publications, and discovered a wonderful section on seam options and finishes for a straight stitch sewing machine. So, I scanned the section about the various seam and seam finish options using only a straight stitch. I converted these pages into a PRINTABLE PDF to share with everyone on my blog.

The book is from 1934 and published by the SPOOL COTTON COMPANY. This is the company that we now today as Coats & Clark. Click on the cover image to download the file.

NEW!
SMALLER FILE FOR FASTER DOWNLOAD 01/28/2010 9:03 pm Eastern

Wiring a New Electronic Controller for a Vintage Sewing Machine.

Sew-Classic — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 19:44:00 GMT

First, let me clear up a few myths about electronic controllers. They do NOT increase the piercing power of the machine in any way, shape or form. All that they do is control the watts (amount of energy (joules) per second) going to the motor. More watts = more speed, less watts = slower speed, and no watts = stopped.

So, why would someone want an electronic controller? Because they don't produce heat as they regulate the electrical flow to the motor. If you have a habit of never completely removing your foot from a mechanical resistor type controller (carbon pile or wire wound type), these controllers can get VERY toasty. Why? In simple terms, they take the electricity that they are not sending to the motor and turn it into heat. So if you leave the controller just barely engaged, it may not send enough power to the motor to actually move it, but it will convert the remaining 99% of the electrical flow into heat. Likewise, if a mechanical resistor type controller malfunctions or isn't adjusted properly, it can get excessively warm, even hot. An electronic controller approaches the regulation of electrical flow differently and eliminates this problem. The down side to the electronic controllers is that they are plastic, and feel flimsy compared to some of the other controllers.

If you do not have the proper tools, knowledge or experience to complete this project in a safe manner, for goodness sake, DON'T DO IT. Never work on any electrical item while it is plugged in to a power source. I am not responsible for any problems that you may encounter as a result of attempting this project. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

For this project, I started with these items- a new electronic controller and a new Singer, double lead cord set.

	There are different styles of electronic controllers. This article will show how to rewire two of them. The first style is shown to the left and is the easiest to work with. The top screws onto the base, no extra cord strain relief is needed, and it utilizes the more standard ring or fork type wire terminals found on most existing and new cord sets.
	As you can see in the photo, I do add a short length of heat shrink tubing over the cord where it enters / exists the controller body. This is optional, but does give the cord a little extra support and strength. This style controller is about the same size as the Singer button controller, but much lighter.

Below is the process I use when wiring up one of the more compact, replacement, electronic controllers:

I also used a strain relief plastic plug gizmo do-hicky.

Some hardware stores sell them, but finding the right size/shape for the controller isn't always all that easy. I will be carrying them on my parts site.

Now, let me say that installing these isn't all that easy the first few times, but with practice I have learned exactly which cuss words seem to line everything up just right. In the end through, the nice professional, factory look of the installation makes it worth the effort.

Tools: Wire cutters, wire strippers, wire crimping tool.

To the left - the connector that comes on the new cord set. and one cut wire.

OK, the first thing to do is to remove the terminals from the end of the wires on your cord set. You'll need a "special" type for the electronic controllers (female spade terminal). The controller comes with These "special" terminal ends, but I prefer some that I find at my local hardware store. Either ones will work fine.

	Pop the top off of the controller. Determine how much wire you will need inside the controller. Put the strain relief around the wire at the desired spot and push it into the hole. Implement the required cuss words to get it to fit. Then, connect the wires onto the board inside the controller.
	Here it is all done, except for popping the top back on. I use the silver colored square-ish piece as a sort of clip to add some extra strength to the security of the strain relief. It just makes it all that much more stable.
	See how nice that looks? It's all put back together and ready to use. I have cord sets and controllers in stock at the Sew-Classic Parts & Supply online store, Shop.Sew-Classic.com

Geek type notes:

The 120 VAC in the USA is a nominal figure and it IS the RMS (root mean square) or effective value.
Watts = Amps x Volts.

Darning & Embroidery Attachment 161162 or 161161? for Singer Class 401 Machine

Sew-Classic — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 00:41:00 GMT

A couple of months ago, I wrote about a vintage, Singer low shank darning and embroidery attachment that I found. Originally, I thought that it was broken, but it after giving it a whirl, I discovered that it was absolutely perfect!

Anyhow, I found it's cousin. It's basically the exact same vintage attachment, except it 's for a slant shank machine. This one even had it's original box and booklet!

As you can see on the box and on the booklet it says part number 161162. I did, indeed try it on a 401 and a 503, and it worked just as advertised! However, the only way to use it on a 301 is to remove the last thread guide on the needle bar.

So, I decided to take a close up photo of the foot like I did with the low shank version. Guess what? It's stamped part number 161161. How weird is that?

See- Part number 161161 is stamped right on the foot

I scanned the booklet and you can download a PDF copy of it below. You'll be able to see that what is shown in the booklet for part No. 161162 is identical to the attachment that is stamped 161161.

Click image to download PDF
It isn't a printable PDF. This is to discourage the few bad apples out their from selling it on eBay.

$92 Buttonhole Attachment & the Senator's Mom

Sew-Classic — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:45:00 GMT

A while back, I picked up a Singer 500 (that coveted "rocketeer styling!) that belonged to US Senator (and former Ohio Governor) George Voinovich's mother. I bought it from George Voinovich's sister who made a point to tell me the family story and relationships in the machine's history. I'm positive that this provenance is nothing more than a fun tidbit, and doesn't make the machine more valuable in any way, but I get a kick out of it. The 1970 receipt for the buttonhole attachment is made out to "Mrs. Voinovich". I found it tucked in with the extras that came with the machine.

I ran across this forgotten receipt while I was going through my stash of slant accessories, putting together a nice package with another Rocketeer styled machine (503) to list on eBay. The total for the buttonhole attachment, including tax, was $16.67. That sounds reasonable. However, I was curious how much money would that be in 2009 dollars, after adjusting it for inflation. So, I plugged the numbers into the Consumer Price Index Calculator, and it came out to be $92.94 in 2009!!

Here is a scan of the receipt and a sneak peak at the fabulous, loaded, Singer 503 package that I've been getting ready to list:

j

Sammy Is Home for Christmas

Sew-Classic — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 18:38:00 GMT

A while back, I mentioned my father's dog, Sammy, on my blog. My father passed away in September, and that left his little dog, Sammy, in need of a permanent home. Sammy was living with me, but he was dog number four. I knew full well that my finances, time and husband won't allow for that many dogs on anything but a temporary basis. So, I began the search for a new home for Sammy.

Finding someone willing to take him and give him a good home was not an easy task. Sammy takes medicine to control seizures (works very well BTW), and is a Jack Russel - Sheltie mix. This mix makes him smart as a whip, but active. To complicate things further, my father never really insisted that the dog learn good manners. I started working with him right away, and he improved dramatically in just a matter of weeks, but he was still going to need the "right" owner to continue his education and keep him on the right track.

He did find a home, but was returned in just 2 days. I was beginning to think that I might never find a forever home for him, and just when I gave up hope, the miracle happened!

Sammy has been living happily at his new home (number 2) for a couple of months now. His new owner is a single, retired teacher that has owned both Jack Russels and Shelties in the past. This lady already had a very sweet, female yellow lab. This dog and Sammy are great freinds. There is a very large, fence back yard, and Sammy gets to sleep in the bed- all snuggled up- just the way he likes to!

Doris W shared this e-card that just reminded me of Sammy so much! It's super cute- enjoy!

MERRY CHRISTMAS from "SAMMY"

DCMA Takedown Notices- Practice makes Perfect

Sew-Classic — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 13:02:00 GMT

All Rights Reserved Copyright 2008-2009 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
Really, I am not THAT good. I'm not an award winning photographer, nor a Pulitzer Prize wining author, but for lazy people trying to sell their stuff, my work seems to fit the bill perfectly.

You see, they appear to think that it is perfectly ok to copy and paste several paragraphs from my blog and use this plagiarized text to sell their stuff on eBay and Craigslist. It's not.

I usually find out about these thefts when other people run across them as they are surfing, and they send me an email. (There ARE some very caring people that read this blog -thank you!) The last two incidents were on eBay. One was a "copy & paste" job of 4 or 5 paragraphs from my 15-91 review. The other was not only a copy & paste of the text, but they also inserted several WATERMARKED photos from my 15-91 review.as well. Oddly enough, this selling wasn't even listing a Singer 15-91. It was a Japanese made, HA-1 class 15 machine. So, I suppose this person is not very enlightened on multiple counts.

I first contacted both sellers directly and asked them to remove the stuff that they copied and pasted from my blog. The "text-only" seller simply refused. This seller did remove the wording in the listing that referred to the machine as a Sew-Classic℠ sewing machine, but insisted that all of the remaining, copied and pasted (word for word, verbatim) paragraphs constituted "fair use". Nope, sorry. Guess again. If they had read the blog, absorbed the information and then used it to write, in their own words, their very own description- no problem. Or if they were writing a spoof or commentary on my blog, then copying and pasting portions of it would be fair use. To copy and paste multiple sentences and paragraphs in order to market goods that they are selling, there's NO WAY that is fair use.

The other seller just ignored me altogether. Photos, text, everything just stayed put. So, I had to pursue it further.

I issued yet another DCMA take down notice. I've sent several to Craigslist, but this was my first to eBay. It took about a day, but the listings were removed.

Here's the deal-

It's perfectly OK to link to my blog, even in a Craigslist ad. I don't think that eBay will allow it because the sew-classic.com domain sells "non-eBay" items through the shop.sew-classic sub domain.

It is not OK to post my photos anywhere else on the web without my permission. You can link to the photo, but you cannot post it. Now, I do reserve ALL rights, but I generally only pursue the issue when people use my work (writing and photos) to sell their stuff. When it's used for learning or non-commercial purposes, I could get pissy about it, but I usually don't.

You cannot imply that you are associated with Sew-Classic℠ in any way. You cannot call your sewing machine a "Sew-Classic℠" machine.

So, to make things easy, if you are selling something, take your own photographs of it and write your own description about it. By simply doing that, you'll be free and clear of any problems from anyone.

If you want to purchase the right to a photograph to use commercially or hire me to write your description, just asked. I'm always open to applying my skills in order to earn an honest dollar.

If you see someone doing something questionable with my photos or text, PLEASE let me know. I need all the help I can get....

Singer Attachement Box- A FIRST for Me!

Sew-Classic — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 21:13:00 GMT

All Rights Reserved Copright 2008-2009 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
I never expected to have one of these cross my path. I responded to an ad for an "old sewing machine" that was near my house. I went, and liked the machine, paid the full asking price (I usually either just pay the price or pass). After I had it loaded into my car, the lady grabbed a box, and shoved it in my car. She said "Oh, I almost forgot, this goes with the machine."

Well, when I got home this is what I found:

It's an original, Singer attachment box with ALL of the goodies still there except for the skirt marker. Even the original packing slip is still there.

Gatherer
Edge stitcher
Gauge Presser foot
Left & right corder
Machine Pinker
Material Gripper
Buttonholer
Zigzagger
Quilter
Threader & Ripper
Hemstitcher

Instruction books are all there too!

Now, I will have to try and do some research about this new find. I have allot of questions about it. As I find out more, I'll keep you updated!

Ghost of Christmas Past

Sew-Classic — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:46:00 GMT

A couple of weeks ago, I started putting up a few holiday decorations. Now that my kids are older (21 and 19 respectively), we don't decorate to the extent that we did years ago. It's just the tree, and a few other items around the house.

Well, I sent Hubby up to the attic to pull down the boxes, and he put them in the utility room. Boy, do I need to get some new boxes! After 25 years or so, they start to fall apart! Anyhow, I put up and decorated the tree first. It isn't one of those stunning trees with color coordinating or themed decorations. Nope, ours is a mishmash of ornaments gathered over the years. Many of these are family hand-me-downs and even more are homemade by young and old alike. I suppose if there is any theme, It's memories. This suits me just fine, for the most part.

As some of you that follow my blog may know, my dad passed away in September. I had a feeling that there would be some "moments" this holiday season, and there have been a few. One in particular struck me unprepared. As I opened up the boxes of decorations, I came across this Nativity set. Honestly, I had forgotten about it. I was given the figurines by my MIL when I was first married. She no longer displayed them and passed them along to me. Unfortunately, there was no crèche (manger) to go along with the figurines. My mother put a bug in my father's ear that he should make me one as a gift, and he did. He put allot of attention into the details and really made a nice one IMHO. It's a special way to remember him, but I can hardly walk by it without getting a lump in my throat. I'm looking forward to a time when these moments stir up happy memories rather than feelings of saddess and loss.

Singer 99 185 Sewing Machine Case

Sew-Classic — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 22:29:00 GMT

All Rights Reserved Copright 2008-2009 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
It's fairly common for people to be in need of a case for a vintage sewing machine. Sometimes the cabinet is too big for their space, it's in terrible shape or they just don't want to have the machine in a cabinet for a variety of reasons. Even if the machine came with a case, these don't always age well. Often, the vintage cases are in disrepair as well. So, a new case is in order.

The newly manufactured, after market cases do have some advantages. They are lighter than the wooden cases, easy to clean, and don't stink. But some folks wouldn't dream of using a new case for their old machine, and that's well within the "rules" - as if there are any!

This particular case is for the (three-quarter) sized machines such as the Singer 99, 99K, 185 and 185K.

Another nice feature- There is a little bar that swings out from the bottom on the back side of the case. This help prevent the case from tipping over when you tip back the machine for cleaning, oiling, etc..

There is a nice sized compartment toward the hand wheel- perfect for storing the motor controller.

There's another, smaller compartment toward the needle area. I think this would be a convenient spot for keeping some attachments or even notions.

As soon as I got this case in stock, I grabbed a lonely 99K that I had sitting here to see how it fit. Well, the particular machine that I grabbed didn't' fit quite right in the case when I first installed it.

The front edge of the machine was just short of the little rest/ shelves that are on the front, inside edge of the case. No problem- I just didn't shove the hinge pins all the way into the base of the machine as far as they could go. I used two very narrow wire ties to "shim" the bed of the machine toward the front edge a bit and secured the set screws on the underside. Heck, I don't even need to removed the ties!

This was a super quick, easy work around to make good use of this after market case for a vintage sewing machine.

This case can be purchased here

Above- See the wire tie on the hinge pin?
Below- It's hard to see it from the top

Another Vintage Sewing Booklet- Today's Woman Sewing Simplified

Sew-Classic — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 16:19:00 GMT

click to enlarge

This booklet was published in 1965. The cover sure looks like the mid sixties! It actually reminds me of a TV show I like to watch (one of the few) called "Mad Men". I don't know exactly why, but something about that era just intrigues me.

Well, anyhow, this is an interesting publication. It has some very helpful "Hot-To" guides and a 2 page "Dictionary of Sewing Terms" that I think are pretty good, especially for garment sewing.

However, This particular booklet has more than its fair share of funny and down right odd advertisements and photos.
The first one I noticed was the photograph accompanying the section on sewing equipment. It seems that the intention of the photo is to illustrate an example of how to set up a sewing area. The spool rack on the wall is a great idea, and the hanging basket with balls of yarn- another great idea, but the actual sewing area- not so much.

Don't see the problem?? Really? Look again...at the sewing machine....umm...not all that easy to sew with it facing the wall!

I'm going to scan a few more pages- some funny, some useful and some simply interestiing- as I find the time....stay tuned!

Singer Sewing Machine Light - Easy Way to Repair or Rewire

Sew-Classic — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 18:46:00 GMT

**All electrical repairs are done at your own risk. Unplug everything before attempting any repair.**

It's common for these old Singer sewing machine lights to require repair or replacement. So, I've rewired and repaired quite a few them. This entry is going to focus on the fixtures commonly found on the Singer 15-91, 15-90, along with other 15's, Singer 206, 306, 66 and probably a few others. See the photo below for an example of the type of fixtures addressed in this entry.

The first type shown is the most difficult of the two to open up and rewire and they often have worn contact springs. The only source I know of for replacement contacts is from another old fixture. To open this first type, you have to spread apart the three metal compression rings. It's a bear to do, but not nearly as big of a pain as getting it back together. My best advise is to curse softly so as to not offend the neighbors. Also, keep band aids handy.

The second type is much easier to open up - just screws and such.

However, both types require you to de-solder the wires from the inside contact/connection points and solder new wires directly to the contacts. If you're into that sort of thing and the contact springs aren't fatigued (first type), then have at it.

Both of these types of fixtures attach to the machine by way of a screw behind the round, silver plate, and a BRAND NEW light fixture is available to replace them.

The new lights look great on the machines.

The down side is that the factory makes them with a 2 foot cord with a wall plug on the end. So, directly from the factory, they aren't "plug and play" on the electric machines like the 15-91. Modification is required.

However, I make them available through Shop.Sew-Classic.com with color coded connectors right on them. Even for people that aren't comfortable stripping wires, soldering or making proper crimped connections, etc.. repairing the light fixture has never been easier!

Brand NEW light fixture installed on a 15-91

Here is how the light comes from the factory. The cord is about 24 inches long, and you can see the wall plug on the end. I have them available in this configuration as well.
Here is one that has been made "plug & play" ready by Sew-Classic (me). The wires have been made the correct length. To make things easy, color coded electrical eyelet connectors are carefully, and securely attached. These are not too big and bulky and fit behind the terminal body on the machine without any problems. - Quick, easy, painless- a NEW light fixture for your treasured machine!
It's so easy to connect this light fixture. First, remove the round silver plate on the back of the machine. Unscrew the old fixture. Using the existing screw, fasten the new fixture into place. To connect the wires, remove the one screw that holds the terminal body in place. This will allow you to access the back side. (see photo on the right) This next step is just like paint by numbers! Remove the knurled thumb nuts on post number 1 (yellow) and post number 3 (red). The connector with the red collar goes on the # 3 post with the red dot, and the connector with the yellow collar goes on the # 1 post with the yellow dot. Put the thumb nuts back in place and reassemble everything. How easy- just Plug & Play!

Click Thumbnail to see these light fixtures at the Sew-Classic on-line Store

Replacing the Wires on a Singer Button Foot (motor) Control

Sew-Classic — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 16:42:00 GMT

NOTE: The following procedure is only to be done at YOUR OWN RISK. Do not work on any electrical item unless it is UNPLUGGED.

I have been asked many times to provide directions for re-wiring stuff, and I have been very hesitant to do so. This particular procedure doesn't require any soldering, crimping of connectors, etc..., so it's a little bit more difficult to screw up. However, if you do screw it up, that's on you. When it comes to any electrical repairs, if you don't know what you are doing, well then, don't do it.

Alright- so your Singer button controller news new cords? The slide shows below illustrate how to replace the wires and prep the new plug to fit correctly on your machine. Please be aware that the rubber plugs that attach to the machine on the new sets tend to be tight. To make using them easier and to prevent accidentally cracking the terminal on the back of your machine, it's best to prep the plug and NEVER twist or tilt the plug when removing it from the machine. Always pull it STRAIGHT back.

Tweaking the female terminal block on the end of the new cord set so that it fits more easily, simply involves "stretching" out the brass contact tubes inside the block. Not only tapping something into the holes (as shown below) but also applying some lateral pressure (whacking the tapped in item to the side) will help open these up a bit and insure a proper fit. Sometimes these new cord sets fit perfectly on a given machine without any adjustments, but due the variance in the OD of the prongs on different machines, it's also common for "tweaking" to be required.

(Move your cursor over the photo to reveal the controls for the slide show- you can stop, advance and reverse the photos.)

You can buy the cord sets and new rubber feet for your controller from the Sew-Classic Parts Store.

You can buy the cord sets and new rubber feet for your controller from the Sew-Classic Parts Store.

Better Than New?- Singer 201-2

Sew-Classic — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 12:32:00 GMT

It must have been somebody's first day on the job at the Singer factory in New Jersey, or maybe they were a bit hung-over from the night before. I really don't know what went wrong, but something was certainly "off" that day.

You see, in the process of assembling the motor on this 201-2, they didn't get the armature pushed in just quite enough. This caused the set screw that goes through the worm gear to just miss the edge of the flat spot on the shaft where it is supposed to sit.

So what? Well...this meant that a portion of the carbon brushes weren't actually riding on the commutator. Certainly this doesn't provide optimal performance. Not only that, but the brushes wore down with this odd protrusion where it wasn't making contact.

Anyhow, after I soldered new wires onto the leads coming off the field coil inside the motor, I began the process of reassembling the motor. I was determined that this time, it would be done correctly. At least this part of the machine would actually be better than new, right?

Well, the original, incorrect placement of the set screw caused a burr on the armature shaft and the armature shaft just didn't want to slide into the worm gear fully. This threw everything out of whack and even caused it to bind. Thank goodness hubby has all of these fabulous, precision tools from his years as a die maker. A little "stoning" (not nearly as fun as it sounds) and the burr was gone. Now, everything fit so precisely and moved so smoothly- YEAH!

Let me tell you- that machine seemed so much happier after it's corrective surgery and spa treatment. This Singer 201-2 runs so smooth and nicely- just a dream of a machine!

Of course, I replaced the funky brushes, cleaned the grease pots& wicks and re greased the worm gear, etc.. This machine got my typical "fine comb" treatment.

Here she is all ready for a trip to eBay. I'm trying out a new background in my "studio". I've replaced the usual white with blue.