Sew-Classic Blog

Free Singer 500 / 500A Sewing Machine Manual

Sew-Classic — 2011-02-11T17:32:00Z

It was quite a project getting this book scanned and converted to PDF, but alas, HERE IT IS. I broke it down into two sections to maintain the quality and keep the file from becoming too large. Even so, they are decent sized files and make take a while to download depending on your connection speed.

It's free for anyone and everyone's personal use, but PLEASE DO NOT SELL THIS PDF.

Singer 500 Manual Part A 2.49 MB

Singer 500 Manual Part B 3.57 MB

Please visit Shop.Sew-Classic.com for parts & supplies for your Singer 500 / 500A

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

DONE- Singer Featherweight 221- UPDATE in RED

Sew-Classic — 2010-12-10T18:06:00Z

Long overdue UPDATE/10/2010:

This poor gal just kept on getting pushed to the back of the burner so to speak. FINALLY, it's done. It will look swell under somebody's Christmas tree....but I will never do this again....far too much work. But, I can check this off of my bucket list. The next machine with finish issues will be a parts/donor machine.

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Here is a quick shot of the "cherry red" featherweight with it's first coat of paint. I'll try and post a few more shots of it's progress along the way. (this is not the same machine as the black on below- different machines)

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Classic Singer 99 Vintage Sewing Machine Review

Sew-Classic — 2010-11-22T19:28:00Z

All Rights Reserved Copright 2008-2009 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
Don’t let the smaller size of the Singer 99 sewing machine fool you for one minute. This machine is a beefy little tank of a sewing machine that will last for generations with just a little bit of care.

When in proper, serviced condition, the 99 will sew delicates to denim and handle any of your household sewing needs with ease. This review will give you the specifications and other information to help you get to know the Singer 99 and why it's considered sew classic. (free manual download at the bottom of the page)

The machine is a ¾ (three-quarter) size head due to it’s shorter “wheel base” so to speak, so it won’t fit in a standard size cabinet or case. It's important to be aware that the Singer 99, like it’s larger, "twin" sibling the Singer 66, cannot be used directly on a table top surface. It must be either mounted in a cabinet, case or other suitable base for the parts on the under side of the machine to be able to move and function properly. As a side note, the Singer 66 is basically a full sized version of the model 99.

(click on thumbnails to see larger photo)

Specifications for the Singer 99:

¾ size cast iron head with all metal linkages
Weight- about 22 pounds (not inc. the case)
Low shank, screw-on feet
Standard sewing machine needle (130H/705H or 15x1 needle systems)
Adjustable stitch length
Back tack function on some versions of this model
Belt driven
Built on light
Oscillating, horizontal hook with a drop in bobbin - class 66
Straight stitch only
Uses feed cover plate- feed dogs don’t drop.

People often mistakenly refer to the Singer 99 as a "Featherweight". It's not. The Singer model 221 and 222 are the real Featherweight models.

To the right, is a photo of a Singer Featherweight 221 sewing machine.

I LOVE the Singer 99 for teaching beginners to sew, and I absolutely love this model for kids. Often, the temptation when buying a machine for a youngster or a begineer is to get them one of the small, cheap plastic machines. It has been my experience that these machines get broken much to easily for a youngster or many beginners to learn to sew with out frustration. The lightweight machines often end up stuffed in the back of a closet with other toys and junk piled on top of them, and they tend to bounce around on the table while sewing. They are also prone to getting knocked out of time. The Singer 99 is striking to look at, built like a tank, stays put, and will sew gorgeous stitches for generations on a wide range of fabrics. Timing adjustments are very rarely (dare I say never?) needed on a Singer 99. So, you can understand why I love this machine for kids and beginners.

(click on Thumbnail to enlarge)

Here’s my favorite part - it can be converted from electric to hand crank and back again! This is great for the youngest kids. There are no worries that the machine will “run away” on them, because the child IS the motor. Of course, young children should always be supervised. You just never know what they'll do when you look the other way. The hand crank is also great for sewing aboard a boat, at the cabin, on the patio or anywhere that an electric outlet might not be handy. I always thought that it would be hard to guide the fabric with one hand while cranking with the other, but once I gave it a whirl, I was surprised at how easy it really was. Yes, you can convert some of the full size machines to hand crank as well, but they weigh 10 pounds more and take up a bit more space. The 99 provides full size beefiness in a 3/4 sized package.

A Little Convertible for Summer - Singer 99 Hand Crank to Electric & Back Again!

These machines offer a tremendous value. A fully service, refurbished and guaranteed Singer 99 can be purchased for about the same price as one of the cheap, flimsy, plastic, made in China, disposable machines from the discount store. As far as quality and durability, the discount store machine can’t even come close to the Singer 99.

Some Varieties of the Singer 99:

99K10 - Aluminum rather than iron head (not common)
99K13 - Electric portable with wooden cover or carrying case, knee control
99K16 - All metal (electric) portable with carrying case
99K17 - All metal (electric) portable with carrying case
99-31 Newer model with back tack abilities
185K- "modern" looking version of the 99-31. minty green, sleeker lines, mechanically identical to the 99-31

The “K” in Model name indicates it was made in Kilbowie, Scotland

Things to watch for when buying an "atitc fresh" Singer 99:

Inspect all electrical wiring carefully- rewiring is often needed
Look for missing or worn hook lubricating felt
Rotten/dry/crumbling bobbin winding tires
Missing tension parts
Missing knee levers (for those that came with one)
Bent or broken spool pins
Mising bobbin cover/slide plates
Siezed, rusted or frozen mechanisms
Feed dog adjustments sometimes needed

Is the Singer 99 INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH?? There is a full exlination of this, and other marketing terms in the eBay Sewing Machine Buying Guide - just scroll about 1/2 way down the article. In reality, the Singer 99 is a fine, well built, sturdy, strong HOUSEHOLD sewing machine. If it were industrial in ANY way it would weigh about 4 times as much, and would be mounted into a large industrial table. It wouldn't be so darn cute either!

Industrial, Commercial Grade, Professional, Industrial Strength & More- Sewing Machine Buying Guide

FREESinger 99 manual(download in PDF form)

More info on an INSTANT marked needle plate for any vintage machine!

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Classic Singer 201-2 Vintage Sewing Machine Review

Sew-Classic — 2010-11-22T19:04:00Z

(click on thumbnail to see larger photo)

The Singer 201-2 sewing machine is a true a classic! In fact, it’s Sew-Classic! Three words come to mind immediately with this machine- quality, beauty and durability. This model is an enduring favorite among, sewing hobbyists, tailors, seamstresses, dressmakers, and collectors alike. It is considered to be one of Singer's best machines ever! (I happen to be partial to it myself)

This review will cover the technical features, advantages, disadvantages (yes, every model has them, even this one), accessories, and common problems or issues found on ‘attic fresh”, unrefurbished machines. (Free 201-2 manual download at the bottom of the page)

Specifications for the 201-2:

Cast iron body with an overall weight of about 30 pounds
Straight stitch only with full reverse feed and adjustable stitch length
Low-shank, screw-on feet
Uses standard, home sewing machine needles (15x1, 130/705H, HA-1, etc.. needle system)
Drop-in bobbin, class 66
Full rotary horizontal hook
Feed dogs drop for darning & free-motion work
Gear driven- no belt, motor usually rated at about 0.6 amps
Numbered tension dial
Large harp area (approx. 8 ¼” wide by 5 ¾” high)
Built on light

(click on thumbnails to see larger photo)

The Singer 201-2 was first introduced in the mid 1930’s. At the time, it was the top of the line model for Singer and continued in production for about 20 years. The earlier models have the delicate scroll work on the face plate (see above)and access cover, while later models have the more “modern” looking striated design (below).

(click on thumbnail for larger photo)

One of the features that made the 201-2 so advanced for it’s day was the gear driven motor. You’ll notice the ‘pot’ hanging off the back of the machine by the hand wheel. This is actually the motor. Because the motor looks like a pot, they are often referred to as a “potted motor”. with the gear drive, there is never any worries about a slipping, worn or mal-adjusted belt.

Feet and attachments for the 201-2 are very easy to find. Just look for standard, low shank, screw-on feet. I have used vintage Pfaff feet, and new generic feet with success on the 201.

In fact, my favorite walking foot for the low shank, straight stitch machines is a Straight Stitch walking foot. No, it’s not the same as the $500 vintage Singer “black penguin” (as it is called) walking foot, but I have had the best results with this foot over any other modern walking foot on the straight stitch machines. In fact, I rather like it, and it’s price of about $20-$25.

Notice how the needle opening on the foot is a small round hole and the walking mechanism on the bottom of the foot is narrow- just like the feed dogs on the 201 and other low shank, straight stitch machines.

As a side note,: No walking foot attachment actually “feeds” the fabric. What it does do is reduce/remove the friction and resistance of the solid presser foot on the top layer of fabric. This helps keep the top layer from stretching or shifting and promotes even feeding.

This walking foot installed on a Singer 201

Alright, back to the 201-2 now. On the thumbnails below, you will see all of the attachments that came with the 201-2 when it was sold new placed on the page of the manual with the direction for each corresponding foot. These feet include the ruffler, the gathering/shirring foot, the binder, edge stitcher, adjustable hemmer and the foot hemmer/narrow hemmer.

(click on thumbnail for a larger photo)

There are many other attachments available for the 201-2, including the zigzag attachment shown below. It works best with fabrics that have more body and substance. The results are less than ideal with the attachment when using lighter weight fabrics.

(click on thumbnail to enlarge)

(click on thumbnail for a larger photo)	We can’t talk about great attachments for the Singer 201-2 without mentioning the buttonholer. The vintage Singer automatic buttonhole attachments make the most gorgeous buttonholes, time after time.
(click on thumbnail for a larger photo)	For free motion work or darning, the Singer 201-2 isn’t always the first choice for many quilters. The horizontal bobbin orientation requires the thread to make a 90 degree bend that doesn’t occur with vertical bobbin machines. But, I personally have had good results doing some darning and free motion work with my 201 and a modern darning foot . However, I’m not an avid quilter.

(click on thumbnail for a larger photo)

The harp size on a 201 is extremely generous, and as with most straight stitch only machines, there is tons of room in the needle bar area. This is great for visibility and for bulky or larger projects.

(click on thumbnail for a larger photo)

The full rotary hook makes the 201 SMOOOTH and a relatively fast stitcher. I like to sew fast, so this really appeals to me. If you prefer to sew slowly, it will do that as well. If you do a lot of slow speed sewing, you might want to consider putting an electronic controller on your machine rather than the original, carbon pile, button controller. When sewing at less than full speed, the carbon based controller takes the energy not flowing to the motor and converts it into heat. An electronic controller operates differently, so heat build up with extended slow speed sewing is not an issue. On any Sew-Classic machine, the buyer can upgrade to an electronic controller as an option.

Another upgrade that I like to make to the Singer 201-2 is adding a marked needle plate. Originally, the 201-2 (& others) came with an unmarked, plain needle plate, and this is why thrift store machines often come with gobs of tape on the surface of the bed. After 50 years in one spot, this stuff isn’t coming off easily!

The marked needle plate makes for quick & easy reference, accurate seam allowances and can be installed for you on any Sew-Classic Singer 201-2.

I have no trouble what-so-ever hemming jeans and sewing silk with the Singer 201-2. In fact the small needle hole opening offers great support for delicate fabrics and along with the correct needle, eliminates puckered seams, even on silky polyester fabrics.

Speaking of needles, the Singer 201-2 happily uses any quality home sewing machine needle, except you will want to avoid using any sort of stretch needle on your vintage straight stitch machine. Due to the close tolerances between the hook and needle on these vintage machines, the offset blade on the stretch needle can actually damage the hook. Besides, since the tolerance is so close, you will find that you don’t even need to use a stretch needle. For sewing knits with a vintage straight stitch machine like the 201-2, either use a ball point or an universal point needle.

Refurbishing a Vintage Sewing Machine- What's That?

Common Issues:
One of the most common and easily solved problems people have the 201 is that the needle is inserted incorrectly. The needle must be inserted with the FLAT SIDE TO THE LEFT, and threaded from the right to the left.

DETERIORATED ELECTRICAL WIRES are very common - How to inspect the wires on a vintage/ classic sewing machine

(click on thumbnails for larger photo)

When it comes to the motor on the 201-2, they are prone to having problems. Overheated wiring and damaged motors in need of replacement or repair are not at all uncommon on an unrefurbished 201-2. When servicing the 201-2 ,or any potted motor Singer, it is imperative not to overlook the motor , bearings, worm gear or grease pots. As you can see in the before photo, the grease gets really cruddy after 50 or 60 years. To properly service these motors, the motor must be removed from the machine, and the armature removed from the motor. This allows the worm gear, motor bearings, grease posts and wicks to be thoroughly cleaned. It also means that the carbon brushes will be removed, checked & cleaned along with the armature itself. Let me tell you the difference between how these machines run before and after this intensive servicing is nearly night and day.

The other important thing not to neglect when servicing a vintage 201-2 is to remove the bobbin case to clean out underneath it. If this hasn’t been done in a few years (and it probably hasn’t), they can be all manner of lint and cement like substances under there. Be forewarned, removing and replacing the bobbin case for the first time can be a real test of you patience and mechanical ability. Even so, this is not something that should be neglected.

More common issues on “attic fresh” Singer 201-2 machines are:

Dirty, corroded or missing tension parts
Bent. Broken or missing spool pins
Broken bobbin wider spring
Deteriorated bobbin wider tires
Deteriorated wires to the motor, foot controller, outlet plug and sometimes the light fixture . Dangerous wiring is extremely common. In order to properly inspect the wires, one must remove the terminal from the back of the machine and inspect all the wires and connections. Bend, squeeze and examine the wires coming out of the motor very closely. If one portion of the wire has brittle, gumy, stiff or crmbling insulation, the complete wire NEEDS to be replaced. These are all signs of age related deteroration, and the whole wire is the same age. Over 90% of the 201-2's that cross my work bench need to have these wires replaced. Leaving the old, deteroriated wires in place is hazardous. How to inspect the electrical wires on a vintage machine
Maladjusted button controller
Seized or rusted parts
Missing parts

Is the Singer 201-2 industrial strength?? I must point out that Singer made a machine nearly identical to the 201-2 which was marketed to tailors, seamstresses another cottage type business applications. This was the Singer model 1200. This model is simply a Singer 201-2 with an added knee lifter for the presser foot. which was mounted in a commercial table. This was not for sewing heavy fabrics on any sort of routine basis, nor was it intended for high speed, high volume industrial use. In fact, both the Singer 15-91 and the Singer 201-2 have often been favored by tailors & such for there quality stitch and durable reliability. However, there is still nothing truly industrial about them in any way. I highly suggest that you read this eBay Sewing Machine Buying Guide and the Industrial, Commercial Grade, Professional, Industrial Strength & More- Sewing Machine Buying Guide to learn the truth about “industrial strength” and other misleading marketing terms.

All metal gears - (click on thumbnail for larger photo)

The bottom line is that the Singer 201-2 is a very high quality machine that will sew for generations with just a little TLC once it’s been fully refurbished. You simply cannot buy a new machine, at any price, anywhere near the overall quality of the 201-2. When the 201-2 was sold new, it’s price was about $1600 to $2000 in 2008 dollars after adjusted for inflation. For a 60 year old machine, that works out to be about 9 cents per day. What a great deal!

Singer Brochure from 1951:

(click on thumbnail for larger photo)

Varieties of the Singer 201 machine:

201-1 - natrual born treadle
201-2 - potted motor (gear driven) machine
201-3 - solid hand wheel with external belt driven motor
201-4 - natural born hand crank
1200-1 - same as the 201-2 but with a knee activated presser foot lifter and born in a commercial type table

For futher Reading- Comparing the Singer 201-2 and the 15-91

LINK TO FREE SINGER 201-2 SEWING MACHINE MANUAL and FREE BUTTONHOLER MANUAL

More info on an INSTANT marked needle plate for any vintage machine!

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Products to Oil & Lubricate a Sewing Machine

Sew-Classic — 2010-11-22T19:02:00Z

Using the wrong lubricating product or oil for your sewing machine can be a slippery slope to problems for your sewing machine or serger. Don’t risk damaging your machine or make things more difficult for yourself, get the correct tool and product for the job.

As far as where to oil, refer to your user’s manual for that information. If your manual doesn’t have any oiling instructions, then it is the manufacturers intent that any lubricating that is required is to be done by the technician when you take the machine in for service and not the owner/ user. If this doesn’t sit well with you, then you should consider getting a quality, classic, vintage machine which you can clean and oil yourself. The instructions will be right in the manual. For generic cleaning and oiling instructions, try This Sewing Machine Maintenance Guide from the New Mexico State Cooperative Extension Service.

Let's start by covering what oils you shouldn’t use and then give some good product options for oiling your sewing machine.

Fist, do not use 3-in-1 oil. The solvents it contains which give it is cleaning properties will evaporate over time and the remaining product It will “varnish up”, becoming a sticky gumming residue and binding up your machine.

Do not use WD-40. It can interfere with the lubricating properties of the graphite deposits in sintered bearings on newer machines, and will not provide sufficient, long term lubricating properties on any machine.

If it smells like gasoline just don’t use it.

Don't use motor oil. That’s for you car.

Don’t use olive oil or vegetable oil. That’s for your salad.

Sewing Machine oil with precision applicator tip

Guess what you should use? SEWING MACHINE OIL! See, this isn’t complicated at all!

Make your sewing machine happy and your life simpler by using a good, clear sewing machine oil. These are sold at Joann’s , Target, Wal-Mart, any sewing machine shop and other fabric stores. It’s cheap (less than a few dollars per bottle) won't harm your machine when used according to the directions in you manual, and works fine.

If you feel like using the BEST oil for sewing machines (IMHO), you can get yourself some Tri-flow oil. It comes in an aerosol spray can and a drip bottle. I like the drip bottle (shown here). It’s easier to control (has a little straw that fits in the tip)and far less messy than the aerosol spray. Tri-flow has PTFE (Teflon) suspended into the mix, so be sure to shake it up well. It’s slightly more expensive than standard sewing machine oil and it’s nice to use, but not an absolutely necessary expense.

If you find an old bottle of sewing machine oil and it isn’t clear and colorless, don’t use it. The oil breaks down over time and just won’t do the job like fresh oil.

What about grease?

Grease is used on some sewing machine gears. Oil would just fly off as the gears spin, so it is not a substitute for grease in this case. Also, many of the vintage Singer motors require grease. The grease is used in the tubes and pots that hold the wicks which transfer the lubrication required to the motor bearings.

On machines with metal gears, I REALLY like the Tri-flow grease. It’s sticky and doesn’t fling off as the gears spin. Singer lube (Sold at Joann’s & most sewing machine shops) and petroleum jelly are other options as well. I do NOT recommend using lithium grease . Why? Because I have personally chiseled & chipped it off of one to many sets of metal gears. It apparently turns into an opaque, concrete like substance over time.

For plastic gears, please proceed with caution. On many models, the manufacturer specifies no lubricant is to be applied to the synthetic/ plastic/ nylon/ non-metal gears. Using a lubricant in this case is not advised. For many other machines, the manufacturer recommends a product such as Molykote EM-40M or similar. In such an instance, it is safe to use Tri-Flow grease or Di-electric grease. Neither will harm the plastic gears, and they will provide the lubricating properties required. Many other types of grease are not safe on plastics or nylon, so be very careful about what you use on non-metal gears..

If you like to use something not mentioned here or that I’ve cautioned against, that’s your prerogative, but please don’t expect me to endorse it. I’ve developed a repertoire of safe, effective products, and I’m stickin’ to ‘em.

You can find the Tri-Flow oil and grease for sewing machines right HERE.

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Singer 15-91 Sewing Machine Review

Sew-Classic — 2010-11-22T18:56:00Z

click on image to enlarge

The Singer 15-91 is a one of the classic, black, cast iron Singers loved by sew many for sew long and for sew many good reasons! This attractive, vintage machine is noted for it's sturdy build, cast iron iron body and exceptional straight stitch. The 15-91 was made by Singer from the early 1930’s through the mid 1950’s. This review will cover the important points of this ever, Sew-Classic^TMsewing machine and many of the available attachments and feet. (free manual download at the bottom of the page)

Click HERE for Singer 15-91 (15-90, 15-88, 15-89) Sewing machine Parts!

Here’s the stats:

Weight - approx. 29 pounds
Hook type: vertical oscillating - side loading
Bobbin: Class 15
Bobbin case position finger - 11 o’clock position
Needles: Standard household sewing machine needles (system 15x1 aka 130/705H)
Motor: usually rated at about 0.6 amps with a direct, gear drive (no belt)- notice the little "pot" stuck on the back of the machine near the handwheel. This is the motor, often call a "potted" motor"
Has feed dog drop
Has true reverse feed
Presser feet: screw-on low shank
Adjustable presser foot pressure
Adjustable stitch length

click on images to enlarge

This machine has a generous harp size (space to the right of the needle and to the left of the pillar) and plenty of room around the needle bar. These features combined with it’s excellent ability to free-motion quilt and to handle odd ball threads makes this machine a favorite with quilters. The machine is extremely sturdy with very good piercing power when in proper working order.

Finding feet and attachments is a snap. The 15-91 uses the common, low shank, screw-on feet.

To the right is an excerpt from a 1951 Singer Sales brochure

The stitch quality and fine movement of this model makes it ideal for all kinds of sewing. The small needle plate opening provides excellent support for light weight and delicate fabrics, so this machine isn’t just for hemming jeans and quilting. It truly can master a wide range of sewing applications. Yes, it can sew clothing weight leather, upholstery, canvas, denim, as well as silk and even polyester.

The gear drive provides smooth power delivery, and there is never any worry about worn, slipping or mal-adjusted belts - ever!

Now, this is a household, domestic sewing machine. The is NOTHING industrial about it. However, due to its sturdy build, dependability, and overall quality, this model has been favored by tailors, dressmakers, quilters, and some "cottage" type business applications. To learn more about de-bunking the myth of "industrial strength", commercial grade, and other erroneous, marketing terms, read my blog entry, Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine on eBay

Usually, the 15-91 is a cabinet model, but you can install them in a case or base as shown in the first photo. In reality, a nearly 30 pound machine isn't exactly 'portable', and the extra work space that the cabinet's offer are absolutely fabulous. Plus- when you're not sewing the cabinets are quite attractive. The Singer cabinets often have a knee lever for activating the controller. This keeps the button foot controller up off the ground, but if you prefer to use the controller as a foot activated devise, just slide the controller out of the bracket under the table and set it on the floor.

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click on image to enlarge

Another upgrade that I like to make to the Singer 15-91 is adding a marked needle plate. Originally, the Singer 15-91 (& others) came with an unmarked, plain needle plate, and this is why thrift store machines often come with gobs of tape on the surface of the bed. After 50 years in one spot, this stuff isn’t coming off easily!

The marked needle plate makes for quick & easy reference, accurate seam allowances. These can be purchased here.

One of my favorite attachments is the automatic buttonholer. Yes, it makes absolutely GORGEOUS buttonholes! The Singer 15-91 can use any of the Singer LOW SHANK buttonholers. The low shank units originally came in an emerald green or black treasure chest style case and in the oblong, bullet shaped aqua colored case (not shown).

click on image to enlarge

My favorite walking foot for the low shank, straight stitch machines like the 15-91 is a Special, STRAIGHT STITCH ONLY walking foot. No, it’s not the same as the $500 vintage Singer “black penguin” (as it is called) walking foot, but I have had the best results with this foot over any other modern walking foot on the straight stitch machines. In fact, I rather like it, and it’s price of about $20-$25.

Notice how the needle opening on the foot is a small round hole and the walking mechanism on the bottom of the foot is narrow- just like the feed dogs on the 15-91 and other low shank, straight stitch machines.As a side note,: No walking foot attachment actually “feeds” the fabric. What it does do is reduce/remove the friction and resistance of the solid presser foot on the top layer of fabric. This helps keep the top layer from stretching or shifting and promotes even feeding.

(More information about this foot here)

Want one for your machine? You can Purchase it HERE.

I'm also a big fan of the fine rolled hem that this machine will produce with the rolled hem foot. I used this foot to make quick work of this top (Simplicity 3842).

click on image to enlarge

Some more photos of the standard feet that came with the 15-91 when it was new:

click on image to enlarge
There are many other attachments available for the 15-91, including the zigzag attachment shown below. It works best with fabrics that have more body and substance. The results are less than ideal with the attachment when using lighter weight fabrics.

(click on thumbnail to enlarge)
What to watch out for on this machine when purchasing a non-refurbished (“attic fresh”) machine:

Deteriorated wires to the power cord, foot controller, motor and light fixture are very common. Inspect all of the wires and the connections behind the terminal at the back of the machine. I would say that over 90% of the 15-91's that cross my bench require some, if not all, of the electrical wires to be replaced. Dangerous wiring is extremely common. In order to properly inspect the wires, one must remove the terminal from the back of the machine and inspect all the wires and connections. Bend, squeeze and examine the wires coming out of the motor very closely. Over 90% of the 15-91's that cros my bench need to have these wires replaced. Leaving the old wires in place is hazardous. The light fixture is a pain in the neck to open up and rewire. More info - How to inspect the electrical wires on a vintage machine

The EASY way to repair or re-wire the light fixture.

(click on images to enlarge)
Above- before complete servicing

(click on images to enlarge)
After Servicing

After 50 to 70 years the grease that lubricates the motor bearings and the gear drive gets very dirty, breaks down and sometimes even cakes up. It’s best to completely remove this old grease, clean the bearings, lubricating wicks and worm gear and them replace the grease. In order to do a through job, I have found it's best to remove the motor armature completely.

I have seen machines where someone used a lithium based grease on the machines, and it was always hard - like brittle hunks of cement which have to be scraped and chipped off of the parts. So, I always caution against using a lithium base grease for this application.

These machines run some much smoother, faster and quieter after this intensive servicing. The difference is like night and day!

Other common issues: broken bobbin winder springs, rotted bobbin winder tires, missing or broken bobbin cases, seized parts, missing or broken tension parts (especially the take up spring), gummed up tension discs, broken or missing spool pins, mal-adjusted bobbin winder & pre-tensioner.

For more details, see this article on Refurbishing the Singer 15-91

Bottom line, if you are looking for an heirloom quality, strong, sturdy, fine quality sewing machine that is simple to use and maintain, the Singer 15-91 is an EXCELLENT choice.

Other, similar Singer class 15 models:

15-125- mechanically identical to the 15-91. Introduced in 1957, potted, gear driven motor, "updated, modern" design, green
15-75- Just like the 15-125, except belt driven, external motor, black
15-90 - solid hand wheel, external motor, belt drive- everything else is identical to the 15-91
15-89 - Natural born hand crank, spoked handwheel, no motor, otherwise- just like the 15-90 and 15-91
15-88 - spoked hand wheel, most often treadle operated, but sometimes equipped with an orignial Singer motor (see photos below)

(click on images to enlarge)
Singer 15-88

Free 15-91 MANUAL (download in PDF form)

LINK TO FREE BUTTONHOLER MANUAL (download inPDF form)

More info on an INSTANT marked needle plate for any vintage machine!

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Using a Sewing Machne Foot Pedal The Easy Way

Sew-Classic — 2010-04-30T15:33:00Z

Almost all of us instinctively use the foot pedal on our sewing machine the way that gives us the LEAST precise control, and is the least ergonomic.

The tendency is to use it in the orientation below. Notice how the heel is suspended in air? You have to hold up you foot and push down with your toe. This is usually not the easiest way.

Instead, flip the controller around the other way. You will be able to rest your heal and foot on the floor rather than devoting muscles to suspending it in the air. To control the speed of the machine, just push down or release using the ball of your foot on the edge of the controller. Give it a try. You will be surprised at how much easier it will be to get more precise control over the speed and how much more comfortable it feels for most people.

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Organizing the Chaos Pays Off

Sew-Classic — 2010-04-21T01:17:00Z

Today, I decided to go through a small box of "goodies" my mom picked up at garage sales last Summer.

"Wasn't that almost a year ago?", you ask. Yep, I was a bad girl and put it off for too long. I was pretty wrapped up in my father's illness last summer. He passed away in the fall, and then the holidays, and ...well ....I got to it today. (geez- quit nagging me already! <grins> )

Anyhow, look at what I found in the box?

Weird looking contraption, huh?

It's a Singer Style-O-Matic attachment foot.

I've never seen one "in the flesh" before. From what I understand that they are not all that common and are supposed to be able to do the same functions as a multitude of feet.

I got my mitts on a manual for it, and I'm going to try and play with it a bit.

THANKS MOM!

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

I Really like it...But...

Sew-Classic — 2010-04-19T16:57:00Z

My mom (ain't she great?) found this really nice little sewing chair, I' loved the lines of it, but the blond wood finish was just throwing something off for me. It would look weird in my house.

Hmm...I thought I'd just sell it, BUT it doesn't break down (all glued together), so shipping it would be expensive as it would need a very large box. Hmmmm again......I really hate stripping, staining, etc...- just not my cup-o-tea. So, I decided to paint it. Oh yeah, I hear the SCREAMS of

BTW: HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM!!!horror from the peanut gallery. I want to use this next to my treadle cabinet in my living room, and I really want it to not compete for attention with the cabinet. I lightly sanded the chair, and primed and painted it with spray paint. the final finish is a soft eggshell black. Of course, I recovered the seat too.

Before:

After- in it's new "home" next to the treadle cabinet:

BTW- HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM!

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

In the Middle of the Road- Double Lemon and Key Lime

Sew-Classic — 2010-04-14T00:19:00Z

Well, it wasn't exactly manna from heaven...but an unusual story nonetheless....

I was on my way home from running some errands, and as I turned into my neighborhood, the Schwan's delivery truck was leaving. I don't purchase from them, but I see the trucks in my neighborhood all the time. Anyhow, I drove down a couple of blocks and right at the corner of my street I spotted some boxes in the middle of the road. Hmmmmm....I HAD to stop and see what it was.

Double lemon supreme and key lime - that's what it was. Two of the lemon pies and one of the lime- in their sealed boxes and still frozen solid. These must have fallen off the Schwan's delivery truck. I know the truck is long gone down the main road, and it seemed such a waste to just leave the pies in the street, so I took them home and stuck them in the freezer.

We don't like lemon pie, so I gave those to a friend, and I did tell her exactly how I came about them. She laughed and gladly accepted them.

We're going to try the key lime pie.

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Yep, It's GOLD!

Sew-Classic — 2010-03-23T13:47:00Z

I am just so enamored with the color of this machine. It's a gold metallic finish, and I just love it. This Morse sewing machine is a badged, HA-1 type 15 "Clone", made in Japan. I have an in depth review about these types of machines, "It Looks Just Like an Old Singer.. Sort of...

Even the light fixture is gold:

Check out the "Good Housekeeping Seal" :

Here you can see the "M's" that are integrated into the black and silver decals design that goes around the bed of the machine. I think it looks great with the gold. The chrome knob regulates the feed dog drop mechanism.

The only "issue" that I had with this machine other than the typical gunk, was with the motor brushes not moving freely within the brush holders. When I serviced the motor, I cleaned the brushes and the holders as well as the armature, and took just s smidge (yep that is the technical tern) off of the edges of the brushes. Once that was done, along with installing a new belt and bobbin winder tire- this machine was soooo happy!

One more overall photo:

As soon as I'm done playing with this one, it will be listed on my site under machines for sale. I've got a couple of small projects to get done, and I'm going to enjoy this machine a bit before it goes to it's new home.

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

A Few of my Favorite things.......

Sew-Classic — 2010-03-13T00:29:00Z

My mom found this cute little sewing machine music box at an estate sale. It plays "My Favorite Things". The flash conversion makes the music sound "tinny", but I'm not enough of a compuuter person to even want to try and fix it. In person, it sounds quite nice.

"Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens..."

So, what would the lyrics to this melody be for you? What are a few of your favorite things??

Just Wondering........

Sew-Classic — 2010-02-23T13:40:00Z

How to Choose a Sewing Machine Needle

Sew-Classic — 2010-02-15T20:35:00Z

Most home sewing machines (about 99% of them) use the same class of needles. Within that class, there is a staggering array of sizes, and types to suit a wide variety of applications. The whole process of picking the right needle is often misunderstood and many people get quite confused, but I found a really great resource to help clear things up. - AND IT'S FREE!!!

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle Booklet

Jo-Ann's has a great little booklet in PDF form that really explains the ins and outs of selecting a sewing machine needle very well. There are clear illustrations of several types of needles along with a REALLY informative page titled, "Anatomy of a Machine Needle".

The last page has a reference chart for European and American/Asian needle sizes and a guide to help choose the correct size of needle based on the weight of the fabric.

This is one to print out and keep handy in your sewing room, so be sure to download it now while it's still available.

Note- the following information is omitted from the pamphlet::

Stretch needles have an offset blade that can rub against the needle opening or even the hook on machines in which the hook is set in very close. Many quality, vintage machines have very close tolerances between the hook and needle, and using a stretch needle with these machines is not advised.

How to Replace and Adjust a Sewing Machine Belt

Sew-Classic — 2010-02-12T16:47:00Z

All Rights Reserved Copyright 2008-2010 -What does this mean? (NOTE: you may NOT use my photos or text to sell your stuff!)
This tutorial applies to most external motor, belt driven sewing machines. You can purchase a wide variety of Sewing machine belts through the Sew-Classic on line Shop. If you don't find the size of type of belt you need, please feel free to contact me. I'm glad to help.

	STEP ONE: Loosen the screw/ bolt that fastens the motor bracket to the back of the machine.
	STEP TWO: Lift the motor and bracket upwards so that you can easily slip the old belt off of the motor pulley and then off of the hand wheel.
	STEP THREE: Slip the new belt over the hand wheel and into the groove on the hand wheel.
	STEP FOUR: With the bolt still loose, and the motor slid up all the way, slip the new belt onto the motor pulley. Do NOT force the belt. Unless you are installing a stretch belt, do NOT attempt to stretch the belt. If the solid or cogged v-belt won't fit, then get one that is a slightly larger size.
	STEP FIVE: Allow the weight of the motor to take up some of the slack in the belt. Adjust the vertical position of the motor bracket so that the belt is just barely tight enough so it grips the hand wheel and motor pulley and the parts are engaged and turning. The idea is for it to be just tighten enough so that the belt isn't slipping. Tighter is not better. Over tightening the belt will strain the motor, slow down performance, and eventually damage the motor bushings/bearings. Tighten the mounting bolt and check belt tension one last time. Again- do NOT over tighten.
	Just a few more tips: If a stretch belt was previously used on the machine, make certain that any melted rubber bits have been removed from the hand wheel belt groove and the motor pulley groove. You want these areas to be clean and oil-free. When do you need a new belt? If you have a stretch belt on the machine- look to get a solid or cogged v-belt of the correct size. If the belt is cracking or shiny/smooth on the sides. If the belt is too small or too large for proper adjustment.

HOW TO DETERMINE BELT SIZE:

To measure an existing belt (non-stretch):

Place a piece of tape around the belt. The leading edge of the tape will be the measuring point.
Set the belt down on the paper and draw a mark on the paper at the edge of the tape.
Roll the belt in a straight line along the paper and when you get to the leading edge of the tape, put another mark on the paper.
Measure the distance between the marks- this is the length of your belt

If you purchase a replacement belt that is too small, it will be difficult to install using the method shown above, and you may not be able to obtain the proper adjustment. However, due to the adjustment factor, a slightly larger or slightly smaller than original belt can often work fine.

The solid black v-belts look most like the original and are the most attractive. The orange-ish cogged v-belts may not look as nice, but their design makes them more flexible, and I actually prefer the performance of this type.

The rubber stretch belts are for circumstances when you don't know or have the exact right size. The stretch belts put constant tension and more strain on the motor bearings/bushings. Although these types of belts can be handy to have in a pinch and are easier to install, they are less than ideal.

If you are missing the belt completely, just set the motor bracket at the middle spot on the slot, and tie/wrap a piece of non-stretchy string/twine around the hand-wheel and motor belt pulley and then measure the string/twine.

Bernina 117K...working on the review- a teaser

Sew-Classic — 2010-02-06T18:50:00Z

I am going to be doing a full review of this model. Right now I am finishing up some research and testing, and getting loads more photographs! I hope to make it a very thorough review with plenty of information about this sewing machine. There will even be a PDF copy of the original manual which I scanned and converted.

This particular machine included quite a bit of original documentation which actually conflicts with some theories out there about the Bernina serial number system and dating, but I'll go into more detail later.

It's a BEAST of a machine- every bit as sturdy as it looks. It uses industrial needles and has ZIGZAG, adjustable needle position, ALL METAL GEARS (unlike so many of the other vintage Berninas), adjustable pressure foot pressure......off to work on the review...be back soon....

Bernina 117K Manual FREE pdf (2.27 M

Singer 237 Fashion Mate Sewing Machine Reveiw

Sew-Classic — 2010-02-02T21:41:00Z

The Singer 237 was a basic, zigzag, flat bed sewing machine that Singer sold in the later part of the 1960's. Despite it's humble beginnings, this machine is definitely worth considering as a decent, vintage machine. It makes a stunning satin stitch.

Let's start with the statistics and features:

Cast iron head with some plastic panels
Weighs about 32 pounds
Side loading, class 15 bobbin (bobbin case position finger at the 1 o'clock position)
Uses standard, 15x1, household sewing machine needles
Low shank attachments (including low shank buttonhole attachments)
Adjustable needle position
Adjustable stitch length and width
Adjustable presser foot pressure
Reverse feed
Feed dogs drop (control knob on bed- most models)
NO PLASTIC GEARS
External light fixture
External, belt driven motor - Great candidate for a "motorectomy" and conversion to treadle.

Over all, The Singer 237 reminds me of many of the Japanese built, side loading, class 15 machines of the same era.

The 237 can be mounted into a standard Singer table or treadle base, but quite often it was sold with a plastic case as shown below. Whenever shipping this machine, it should always be removed from the case, and the machine and case should be packed separately.

These are generally pretty sturdy machines, but there are a few things to be on the look out for when buying these. for one, the hook race cover is plastic and can crack with age. A replacement cover can be purchased, and Sew-classic Parts and supplies I will be carrying them, as well as replacements belts in the Sew-Classic on line Parts and Supplies Store. Other than a good cleaning and oiling, a new belt and perhaps a replacement race cover, these machines generally don't have too many typical problems. However, it's always a good idea to test out any machine by sewing and winding a bobbin first, unless the seller has already serviced, tested it and is offering a guarantee. It's not uncommon for a machine of this age to have suffered abuse or even have missing parts- a quick test sewing will let you know right away if there are any serious issues.

Above: Here is the plastic race cover found on the 237 (and the 239)

THERE IS NOTHING INDUSTRIAL ABOUT THIS MODEL. Yep, plenty of eBay, snake oil salesman will market it as "industrial strength". (for more information: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine on Ebay)

The Singer 239 is the straight stitch version of the 237.

You can get a free threading diagram here.

More photos:

Below, here is the Singer model 239- the straight stitch only "sibling" of the 237

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Stop By and Take a Look Around! NOW FEATURING SECURE CONNECTION!

Sew-Classic — 2010-01-29T20:16:00Z

UPDATE 02/10/2010: The Sew-Classic Parts & Supplies Shop now features a SSL certificate and a secure connection! You can submit your shipping information and complete order via a safe, secure connection! You can pay via any major credit card through Paypal- no Paypal account required, or you can print your order and make payment with your check or money order.
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Well, I've been working away at getting the Sew-Classic on-line shop stocked and ready to roll. Although I still have items to add, there are currently 73 products listed. Several items are EXCLUSIVE, Sew-Classic products that you won't find anywhere else, some are standard items like bobbins, belts, oil & feet, but ALL of them are priced competitively.

Shipping costs start at an amazingly low $1.95 and gradually go up based on the weight of the items you purchase.

Anyhow, I'd like to invite everyone to stop by and have a look around. If you are looking for something you don't see listed, by all means drop me a line! If I don't have it in stock, I may well be able to get it for you.

The Sew-Classic™ Parts and Supplies Shop

Seam Finishes Using a Straight Stitch Sewing Machine

Sew-Classic — 2010-01-27T19:40:00Z

I hear it all the time, "I have to have zigzag stitch to finish seams". Although you can use a zigzag stitch to prevent a seam from raveling, it's far from the only good option. I'm pretty sure that many articles of clothing were made and worn long before home sewing machines were sold with a zigzag stitch, and I'm pretty sure that these clothes didn't routinely fall apart in the wash.

I was perusing one of my vintage sewing publications, and discovered a wonderful section on seam options and finishes for a straight stitch sewing machine. So, I scanned the section about the various seam and seam finish options using only a straight stitch. I converted these pages into a PRINTABLE PDF to share with everyone on my blog.

The book is from 1934 and published by the SPOOL COTTON COMPANY. This is the company that we now today as Coats & Clark. Click on the cover image to download the file.

NEW!
SMALLER FILE FOR FASTER DOWNLOAD 01/28/2010 9:03 pm Eastern

©Sew-Classic™ 2008-2010

Wiring a New Electronic Controller for a Vintage Sewing Machine.

Sew-Classic — 2010-01-13T19:44:00Z

First, let me clear up a few myths about electronic controllers. They do NOT increase the piercing power of the machine in any way, shape or form. All that they do is control the watts (amount of energy (joules) per second) going to the motor. More watts = more speed, less watts = slower speed, and no watts = stopped.

So, why would someone want an electronic controller? Because they don't produce heat as they regulate the electrical flow to the motor. If you have a habit of never completely removing your foot from a mechanical resistor type controller (carbon pile or wire wound type), these controllers can get VERY toasty. Why? In simple terms, they take the electricity that they are not sending to the motor and turn it into heat. So if you leave the controller just barely engaged, it may not send enough power to the motor to actually move it, but it will convert the remaining 99% of the electrical flow into heat. Likewise, if a mechanical resistor type controller malfunctions or isn't adjusted properly, it can get excessively warm, even hot. An electronic controller approaches the regulation of electrical flow differently and eliminates this problem. The down side to the electronic controllers is that they are plastic, and feel flimsy compared to some of the other controllers.

If you do not have the proper tools, knowledge or experience to complete this project in a safe manner, for goodness sake, DON'T DO IT. Never work on any electrical item while it is plugged in to a power source. I am not responsible for any problems that you may encounter as a result of attempting this project. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Do not use any magnetized or magnetic tools in conjuction with the PC board or any of the screws on the PC board. (Many screw drivers have magnetic tips)

For this project, I started with these items- a new electronic controller and a new Singer, double lead cord set.

	There are different styles of electronic controllers. This article will show how to rewire two of them. The first style is shown to the left and is the easiest to work with. The top screws onto the base, no extra cord strain relief is needed, and it utilizes the more standard ring or fork type wire terminals found on most existing and new cord sets.
	As you can see in the photo, I do add a short length of heat shrink tubing over the cord where it enters / exists the controller body. This is optional, but does give the cord a little extra support and strength. This style controller is about the same size as the Singer button controller, but much lighter.

Below is the process I use when wiring up one of the more compact, replacement, electronic controllers:

I also used a strain relief plastic plug gizmo do-hicky.

Some hardware stores sell them, but finding the right size/shape for the controller isn't always all that easy. I will be carrying them on my parts site.

Now, let me say that installing these isn't all that easy the first few times, but with practice I have learned exactly which cuss words seem to line everything up just right. In the end through, the nice professional, factory look of the installation makes it worth the effort.

Tools: Wire cutters, wire strippers, wire crimping tool.

To the left - the connector that comes on the new cord set. and one cut wire.

OK, the first thing to do is to remove the terminals from the end of the wires on your cord set. You'll need a "special" type for the electronic controllers (female spade terminal). The controller comes with These "special" terminal ends, but I prefer some that I find at my local hardware store. Either ones will work fine.

	Pop the top off of the controller. Determine how much wire you will need inside the controller. Put the strain relief around the wire at the desired spot and push it into the hole. Implement the required cuss words to get it to fit. Then, connect the wires onto the board inside the controller.
	Here it is all done, except for popping the top back on. I use the silver colored square-ish piece as a sort of clip to add some extra strength to the security of the strain relief. It just makes it all that much more stable.
	See how nice that looks? It's all put back together and ready to use. I have cord sets and controllers in stock at the Sew-Classic Parts & Supply online store, Shop.Sew-Classic.com

Geek type notes:

The 120 VAC in the USA is a nominal figure and it IS the RMS (root mean square) or effective value.
Watts = Amps x Volts.