Singer Sewing Machine Light - Easy Way to Repair or Rewire
**All electrical repairs are done at your own risk. Unplug everything before attempting any repair.**
It's common for these old Singer sewing machine lights to require repair or replacement. So, I've rewired and repaired quite a few them. This entry is going to focus on the fixtures commonly found on the Singer 15-91, 15-90, along with other 15's, Singer 206, 306, 66 and probably a few others. See the photo below for an example of the type of fixtures addressed in this entry.
Click Thumbnail to see these light fixtures at the Sew-Classic on-line Store
It's common for these old Singer sewing machine lights to require repair or replacement. So, I've rewired and repaired quite a few them. This entry is going to focus on the fixtures commonly found on the Singer 15-91, 15-90, along with other 15's, Singer 206, 306, 66 and probably a few others. See the photo below for an example of the type of fixtures addressed in this entry.
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The first type shown is the most difficult of the two to open up and rewire and they often have worn contact springs. The only source I know of for replacement contacts is from another old fixture. To open this first type, you have to spread apart the three metal compression rings. It's a bear to do, but not nearly as big of a pain as getting it back together. My best advise is to curse softly so as to not offend the neighbors. Also, keep band aids handy. The second type is much easier to open up - just screws and such. However, both types require you to de-solder the wires from the inside contact/connection points and solder new wires directly to the contacts. If you're into that sort of thing and the contact springs aren't fatigued (first type), then have at it. Both of these types of fixtures attach to the machine by way of a screw behind the round, silver plate, and a BRAND NEW light fixture is available to replace them. |
| The new lights look great on the machines. The down side is that the factory makes them with a 2 foot cord with a wall plug on the end. So, directly from the factory, they aren't "plug and play" on the electric machines like the 15-91. Modification is required. However, I make them available through Shop.Sew-Classic.com with color coded connectors right on them. Even for people that aren't comfortable stripping wires, soldering or making proper crimped connections, etc.. repairing the light fixture has never been easier! |
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| Here is how the light comes from the factory. The cord is about 24 inches long, and you can see the wall plug on the end. I have them available in this configuration as well. |  |
| Here is one that has been made "plug & play" ready by Sew-Classic (me). The wires have been made the correct length. To make things easy, color coded electrical eyelet connectors are carefully, and securely attached. These are not too big and bulky and fit behind the terminal body on the machine without any problems. - Quick, easy, painless- a NEW light fixture for your treasured machine! |
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| It's so easy to connect this light fixture. First, remove the round silver plate on the back of the machine. Unscrew the old fixture. Using the existing screw, fasten the new fixture into place. To connect the wires, remove the one screw that holds the terminal body in place.  This will allow you to access the back side. (see photo on the right) This next step is just like paint by numbers! Remove the knurled thumb nuts on post number 1 (yellow) and post number 3 (red). The connector with the red collar goes on the # 3 post with the red dot, and the connector with the yellow collar goes on the # 1 post with the yellow dot. Put the thumb nuts back in place and reassemble everything. How easy- just Plug & Play! |
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Click Thumbnail to see these light fixtures at the Sew-Classic on-line Store
When I clicked on the photos, I got
page not found. March 27, 2010.
Yo, Jenny!
That light fixture you just sold to me is nifty! I have finished overhauling the Singer 185J that I was given by the sewing group at my church. (It sat unused there for years.) It's a terrific machine -- the motor is 0.8 Amps, about the same as my plastic Brother VX-1120, but it feels a lot more powerful. The original light fixture is the only thing I didn't like; it had two steel circular rings holding it together, a thick lens which had to be removed to change the light bulb (which was burned out), and the innards all fell out when I disassembled it. It would have been a nightmare to put back together. With your kind E-mail assistance, I got the new lamp wired up and It works fine.
This machine was basically in good condition, so I followed your advice (if it ain't broke, don't take it apart) and did minimal disassembly for cleaning. (For cleaning, I used paint thinner / mineral spirits, which is a good grease and crud dissolver.) I also used your recommended Tri-Flow oil. By the way, thanks for warning us off 3-In-One Oil --I'd been using it on my Brother machine until I read your blog.
This little Singer 285 is one potent machine. I gave it an acid test by running it on four layers of old blue-jeans denim with a seam in the middle (total of about seven layers at the seam), using polyester upholstery thread and a size 16 Denim needle. It zoomed right through with no problem (unlike my plastic Brother machine, which struggled with thick denim and couldn't keep the proper tensions between upper and lower bobbins). Then I sewed along the seam (seven layers), and again it stitched away happily. It must be that rigid cast-iron head -- that and the all-steel working parts.
I'm also grateful for all your sewing-machine reviews and how-to articles, because I didn't have the Singer 185J manual yet. (I have since purchased one and downloaded it.) As I did (limited) disassembly and reassembly, I would find a description and photo or diagram of a machine with a similar upper thread tension assembly, or horizontal bobbin assembly, or hand-wheel. If I hadn't had this information, the machine would probably still be in pieces.
Cheers!
Love my Mom's 301. I have the #42 cabinet in excellent shape that she purchased. I need instructions on how to fix the pop out arm that holds the left side top when opened. It will not stay in. Love your site.
Perhaps the pin that holds it is stuck, missing or something is bent- you can take apart the assembly & clean, inspect and lubricae it. i don' have a utorial wriiten on this though- sorry.